Celebrating GRID Alternatives
GRID Alternatives Cycling Tour, 2016
From April to September, 2016, I traveled almost 6000 miles on a bicycle over a number of months and visited a total of 11 regional GRID Alternatives offices - 8 in California (San Diego, Inland Empire, Greater LA, Central Valley, Central Coast, Bay Area, Bay Area North Coast and North Valley) - and then 3 more GRID offices in Denver, New York City and Washington, DC. Beginning in San Diego, the route zigzagged northward through California, then east across the Rocky Mountains through Nevada and Utah to Denver, and across the great midwest and the Appalachian mountains back to my home in NYC. The final leg of the tour from GRID's New York office to GRID's Washington DC office took place from September 17 - 21, through a group ride from NYC to Washington DC with Climate Ride. At each office I met with GRID staff and participated in volunteer installations wherever possible, blogged about the trip (see below), and fundraised for GRID's programs. Funds were raised through a Climate Ride Independent Challenge. GRID's teams of volunteers come together to install solar systems for low income homeowners at no cost to homeowners. In addition, GRID’s hands-on training has evolved into one of the best solar training programs in the country.
Everywhere I went, I was warmly embraced by GRID staff, whether my task was helping to install a solar array on a home, pulling permits at a local Department of Building, measuring roofs during an initial site visit, or conducting door-to-door strategic outreach. I have many great memories. For example, I learned first-hand how GRID Alternative’s engaging job training process helped a young man move away from gang related activity to become a highly regarded SolarCorps Project Fellow in the Los Angeles office. I participated in a great conversation about how communities can be engaged to think about climate resilience as they come together around multi-family solar opportunities in Fresno. I spent a day in Denver with 50 college students from a fantastic Bike and Build team that was also cycling across the country in support of affordable housing, and I was invited by GRID staff to participate in amazing lunch conversations where the conversation about climate change and environmental justice was very inspiring.
Sometimes I was asked how the GRID offices varied from each other. They do - because people are people - so every office has its specific personality. Yet, GRID staffs are amazing for the ways they all share similar core values, such as safety first, unflagging passion and enthusiasm for GRID’s mission and vision and a deep commitment to a cause greater than oneself.
As great as my memories are, there are still many regions that GRID serves I did not get to - including other cities and tribal reservations in the US, and communities Nicaragua and Nepal. So, guess what? I’m thinking about cycling more for GRID Alternatives, and I’m beginning to plan my next trip. So look for more to come!
A map of Grid Alternatives regional offices and a map of my route can be found here.
GRID Tour Finale, NYC to DC
To donate to GRID Alternatives through Climate Ride, please go here.
The GRID Alternatives Trans-American Cycling Tour, 2016, will be closing itself out in a matter of weeks, so the clock is ticking on time left to make a contribution!
I just finished the final 600-mile ride of the tour with a large group of other riders as we rode from NYC to the mall in front of the US Capitol in Washington, DC. Then after visiting the Mid- Atlantic GRID office, I rode back solo back to New York City. My final stats now include being away from home for 125 days, cycling 95 of those days, traveling over 5800 miles and climbing over 223,000 feet. Along the way, I have raised over $5000 for GRID Alternatives and Climate Ride. That may not seem like much money, but many of those contributions are quite small. Along the way, I talked to hundreds of people about climate change and effective strategies for addressing it while building our economy in a sustainable direction. So please don't underestimate how much sweat equity is in those very hard earned dollars!
If you haven’t contributed to this effort yet, I would sincerely appreciate it if you would! No amount is too little! And it's easy - visit my fundraising page where you can make a tax-deductible donation online by using the 'Support Me' link in this email. And if you have already contributed, you have my deep appreciation! If you would like to know more, shoot me back an email or check out the Climate Ride website.
But let me tell you a little more. The final ride - Climate Ride NYC-DC 2016 - was an extraordinary experience! While I knew the vision of GRID Alternatives was close to my heart, I wasn't expecting also to fall in love with the mission and vision of Climate Ride. The Climate Ride people run an intelligent and lean operation, using only six staff to raise almost a $million yearly for climate change efforts. And in the process, they provide life changing experience for their participant riders. Cycling long distance is not easy, yet I met so many other cyclists who - like myself - are worried about how climate change will affect the most vulnerable of us. They were all excited to learn about Climate Ride, GRID Alternatives and the work of others addressing climate change, and how to help low-income homeowners become more energy independent while providing job training for clean energy jobs.
Finally, I was able to visit the Mid-Atlantic GRID Washington, DC regional office, meet with their enthusiastic staff, and do some volunteer outreach before I returned home to NYC - where I will soon make a similar connection at the New York Tri-State GRID Alternatives office in the Bronx. In the meantime, GRID Mid-Atlantic office wrote an article about my visit, which you can read here. Prior GRID newsletter features are listed here and here and a Climate Ride newsletter feature is listed here.
Finally, you can support the Climate Ride “GRID Alternatives Trans-American Cycling Tour”, 2016 by going to my Climate Ride Fundraising Page here:
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!
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The Climate Ride Tour
September 17, 2016 - Day 1: Day 1: 45 miles to Princeton, NJ. We rode 1.7 miles in New York City to the scenic and comfortable Highlands ferry where we jetted 45 minutes to Atlantic Highlands, NJ. Then, after lunch, we rode through beautiful back roads farmland of NJ to Princeton where we camped at the YMCA.
September 18, Day 2: Princeton, NJ to Camp Sakanac, Spring City, PA. Beautiful ride into PA, Washington Crossing at the Delaware River, lunch stop in Doylestown, sensational ice cream rest stop at Merrymead Farm, Iron Hill Brewery in Phoenixville and riding the last 9 miles foggy and dehydrated. Opted to sleep in cabins that night instead of pitch a tent because of rain in the forecast overnight.
September 19, Day 3: Woke up to pouring rain, thunder, and lightning. After a 2 hour delay, the group gets clearance to start about 10 am. We have some distance to travel and start some serious climbing. Fabulous lunch by Climate Ride staff in New Holland, PA and afternoon riding in beautiful Amish country. There's an afternoon stop in Strasburg and finally arrive at a Mennonite camp called Camp Andrews.
September 20, Day 4: Another day of beautiful riding, and ver, very hilly. Lovely stop at a local Cidery called Millstone. Worth a visit! Free tasting and purchases made by many. Rode into Maryland and our final night was at the extraordinary Pearlstone Retreat Center, featuring organic, farm-sourced food, and very comfortable lodging. We gad a big bonfire to celebrate our last night.
September 21, Final day for the group - 70 miles to the US Capitol in Washington, DC. Wasn't long before we crossed into MD, and the first 50 miles flew by as the group arrived in downtown Silver Spring. Then we rode together to Georgetown waterfront and further consolidated for the last 2 miles down Constitution Ave to the U.S. Capitol. After arriving at the Capital, we were joined by friends, families, and colleagues as we celebrated (see the pictures of so many riders holding their bikes in the air). Then, two Congressmen greeted us - Senator Markey from Massachusetts and Senator Whitehouse from Rhode Island. They both congratulated us for our achievements on the ride and shared their thoughts about climate change and the potential for legislation. I found Senator Whitehouse's comments particularly interesting. He mentioned that a significant number of companies had signed a pledge at COP21 to reduce carbon emissions and address climate change. Because oil and gas have such a strong lobbying presence on the Hill, we can research companies that signed the pledge, and push them to be more active in lobbying Congress (on climate change issues). He went on to say that when the climate change denial shoe finally drops in Congress, it will drop instantly, like a crumbling house of cards. That makes sense to me - once evidence is too overwhelming to ignore, then Congress will rush to say they knew it all along. Watch!
September 22, Day 6: Day 6: Early in the day I biked over to the GRID, Mid-Atlantic office to complete my visit to that office. As I had come to expect, I was warmly welcomed by the GRID staff and had a beautiful day. In the morning I went with a team of 2 other staff and one volunteer into pre-screened DC neighborhoods to do outreach about what GRID can offer qualifying homeowners. After a few hours, we returned to the office, where I was given a chance to talk about my almost 6000 miles long trip and answer questions about what I had learned by visiting so many GRID regional offices. Because I was both physically and emotionally exhausted at that point in the tour, I was quite emotional, a tendency that embarrassed me but seemed to touch my hosts. Then, after a tour of the office, I put my bike in the back of a pickup truck and was driven to Annapolis, where I spent a lovely evening with my host (and GRID staff) Michael Brown and his wife, Carolyn.
September 23, Day 7: I left Annapolis reasonably early in the morning on a beautiful sunny day. It was a long, pleasant ride into Baltimore that alternated between a seriously wonderful greenway and city streets. Southern Baltimore is both run down and geographically beautiful. I followed Waterview Avenue, and area of rundown Parkway into Baltimore's fabulous downtown area - built up in a way that seems quite out of sync with the rest of the city. After passing through little Italy and Patterson Park after Butcher's Hill, I found the Pulaski Highway, which was to be my riding companion for another entire day.
September 24, Day 8: After a sleepless night at a friendly, but divey, motel where I slept in my sleeping bag for fear of bedbugs, I followed the Pulaski Highway until about 2 pm. By that time I had just passed north of Wilmington into the northern suburb of Claymont. I saw a sign for SEPTA, the Philadelphia mass transit system. I decided to investigate, and damned if I couldn't pick up a commuter train into 30th St station in downtown Philadelphia. I went for it. I knew that once I got to the 30th street station, I could get me and my bike to Trenton, where I could hop a train to Penn Station in Manhattan. And that’s what I did. So I arrived back at my apartment in Washington Heights, Manhattan by about 7:30 pm. I now know that I can take trains all the way to Wilmington the next time I want to go south on a bike. I love that! I wish the rest of America had trains that were so bike friendly.
Once I got home, I had one GRID office left to visit - in the Bronx. And so I did. On the 13th and 14th of October, and then again on October 28, I participated in solar installations in Highlands, new Jersey and Kingston, New York, respectively. And once I had completed those installs, the Tour was over! I have one last appeal letter to send out by email, and my almost 6000-mile trip is over!
This page is currently under construction.
THE EAST: GRID Alternatives
To see the final blog about the GRID Alternatives Trans American Cycling Tour, 2016, please go here.
To donate to GRID Alternatives through Climate Ride, please go here.
Welcome to my travelogue for the GRID Alternatives Trans American Cycling Tour, 2016. If you read some of my prior blogs you will see I am more interested in reflective writing on environmental issues than I am in writing a travelogue. However, the nature of the trip I have been on since April 8, 2016, makes me think this kind of writing has value. And because of the challenges and stresses a trip like this entails, I don't know that I will be able to write anything thoughtfully reflective until the trip is over.
For those of you tracking this tour day by day, please log onto my Facebook and Instagram accounts. There are links for both (and my Twitter account) at the bottom of this blog if you keep scrolling down. But if you don't participate in social media you can check in here from time to time. But please be forewarned - I find it very difficult to find wifi reliable enough to keep my blog fresh - in fact, I am often as much as two weeks behind. That said, I will get to it when I can, so please keep coming back! I promise you I will add to it eventually, so your patience will pay off.
On this trip I will travel 6000 miles on a bicycle over a number of months and visit a total of 11 regional GRID Alternatives offices - 8 in California (San Diego, Inland Empire, Greater LA, Central Valley, Central Coast, Bay Area, Bay Area North Coast and North Valley) - and then 3 more GRID offices in Denver, New York City and Washington, DC. The route will zigzag northward through California, then east across the Rocky Mountains through Nevada and Utah to Denver, and across the great midwest and the Appalachian mountains back to my home in NYC. The final leg of the tour from GRID's New York office to GRID's Washington DC office will take place from September 17 - 21 as part of the signature “Climate Ride NYC to Washington DC tour". At each office I will meet with GRID staff and participate in volunteer installations wherever possible. I also intend to do some additional cycling to see family and friends, and celebrate the National Park Service’s Centennial.
A great way that you can help put some wind behind my back is to support fundraising for GRID Alternatives through the following link at Climate Ride. Funds raised from this Climate Ride Independent Challenge will support GRID Alternatives. Please know that I am not raising money for myself - the trip is entirely self funded. So 100% of your $ goes to a tax deducible organization. And several excellent ones at that - Climate Ride takes a small portion for providing the fund raising website, and the rest goes directly to GRID. GRID's teams of volunteers come together to install solar systems for low income homeowners at no cost to homeowners. In addition, GRID’s hands-on training has evolved into one of the best solar training programs in the country. Your generous donation will help GRID Alternatives improve the bottom line for homeowners, decrease carbon emissions, and offer workforce training in the solar field - from marketing and sales to system installation - for individual homes, businesses, community solar and affordable housing. This is how to put people to work; solar has been the fastest growing industry in the country for the last four years!
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July 31 was a needed and useful day of rest in Natrona Heights, PA, a suburb to the north of Pittsburgh on the Allegheny River.
My host Kitty posing with my bike before I left the Pittsburgh area on August 1.
August 1 -I cycled through some interesting communities on the Allegheny River on my way through Pittsburgh, where I picked up the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) Trail. Although foggy when I started, the day became beautiful and sunny, and the industrial communities along the river looked alternatively gritty and charming in a strong-shouldered way.
The sun rising over a scrap metal yard next to the Allegheny River.
Although getting through Pittsburgh and down to the Monongahela River where the GAP Trail begins was challenging, I made it onto the trail by early afternoon.
The GAP Trail just south of Pittsburgh.
About five miles south of Pittsburgh the trail becomes well maintained crushed gravel, which leads 160 miles to Cumberland. This proved to be a great surface for cycling - kind on tires and a softer ride than asphalt. If only there were more long bike trials like this!
I got lunch in Boston, PA in a local bar. I explained to several locals what I had been doing for almost 5 months. When I went to pay for my food I discovered that my tab had been picked up by one of the guys I had been talking to. He wouldn't let me pay him back. As I was leaving he said it was his way of supporting my ride. I was touched, to say the least. This is only one of many small niceties that came my way during my trip.
My campsite near Connellsville in the morning. Fog is common in the Allegheny region.
Just at sunset as I was drifting off to sleep, several cyclists set up camp near me. They were teachers from Limerick, Ireland, who were cycling across the US. The next morning I snapped this photo.
One of the earlier views of the day about 50 miles in on the GAP Trail.
August 2 - This day on the GAP trail turned to be quite amazing. Several times during the day I reconnected with the Irish cyclists - Orla Knight and Karen Weeks - who had camped near me the night before. They were both having a great time, and charmed everyone they met on the trail. They were also intense cyclists. Most touring cyclists average about 60 miles a day, but these two typically logged 80 - 100 miles and had done a handful of days where they covered 120 miles and more. I like to think I'm in pretty good shape, but I had to work to keep up with these two!
This view was pointed out by a cycling companion (pictured below) who joined me for about 20 miles in the morning on the way into Ohiopyle (yes, that really is the name of the town), where I enjoyed a terrific breakfast buffet at the Market Cafe.
My cycling companion for about 20 miles in the morning - a retired mining administrator named Steve, who came from several generations of miners near Uniontown, PA. It was Steve who pointed out to me with pride that the Youghiogheny River (which the GAP Trail follows after it leaves the Monongahela) had been cleaned up after years of pollution brought on by coal mining. This man was remarkable to me - he understood climate change, and accepted that coal need to be on its way out as an industry. His pride and his thoughtful understanding that change was now necessary challenged all my stereotypes about coal miners.
Steve took this picture of me as we crossed the river near Ohiopyle, PA.
Later in the day I caught up with Orla and Karen and cycled with them again for a while. But Karen got out in front (which was common) and when Orla and I arrived at a town where she had been waiting for us, she had befriended Bill and Nancy, who took us out for some food. So, for the second time in two days, someone I had just met bought me a meal!
The GAP trial in the late afternoon as I approached the Savage Tunnel, a 1/4 mile long tunnel through the last mountain before the Eastern Continental Divide.
Deep in the tunnel.
The Eastern Divide on the GAP Trail.
Although I left dinner early to get a head start from my crazy Irish cycling companions, it didn't last long. Here they are approaching the Divide.
The view on the eastern side of the Divide just out of the tunnel. Cumberland, Maryland is about 10 miles away.
The sun about to set on the way into Cumberland, MD.
This day we cycled 92 miles, and ended up camping under a pavilion maintained by a local YMCA in Cumberland, MD. Fortunately, Orla was quick thinking enough to stop just as the sun was setting at a local liquor store, so we were able to enjoy some beer before climbing into our tents. Given that we hadn't had much to eat during the day, the beer took the edge of my hunger and I slept well. But I awoke yearning for a big breakfast, so I said my goodbyes to my Irish companions (who wanted to skip breakfast and keep going), and went looking for food.
August 3 - The GAP Trail ends at Cumberland, and joins the C&O (Chesapeake and Ohio) Canal Tow Trail. This cycling trial derives from an old 2 track road, which is how barges were pulled on the canal, and it goes all the way to Washington, DC. I found it muddy and challenging out of Cumberland, but as the day wore on it gradually improved, suggesting that it gradually turns into a better surface as it gets closer to DC. I spent the night in the lovely small town of Hancock, MD. In a tourist renaissance, this old mining town now caters to cycling tourists, and has several decent motels and bar and grills for cleaning up and unwinding.
August 4 - On the C&O Canal Trail until Williamsport, MD. Left the trail and biked north toward Gettysburg, PA, where I stayed in a KOA for the evening. It was a cute place, although pricey because of its proximity to Gettysburg. The husband of the camp managing agent was kind enough to drive me to a bar and grill a few miles away where I got dinner.
August 5 - In the morning I rode past some of the battlefields and through the center of Gettysburg. I didn't think I had time to take a tour and I was worried about rain, so I didn't stop (hope I don't regret that choice - I know I want to return). But what an interesting looking town. Extraordinary architecture in every direction. I continued east, and in the evening I stopped at a Best Value Inn, and to my good fortune discovered an amazing Amish buffet was situated directly across the road. Although the place was packed (Friday night in prime vacation season) I was able to get takeaway and went back to my motel room to eat. I especially remember and extraordinary piece of coconut cream pie. Some aspects of Americana cannot be beat - authentic cream pies are among them.
August 6 - Not much was distinctive about this day, except for an Amish breakfast at the same restaurant as the evening before, and increasingly busy traffic as I approached Media, PA on the outskirts of Philadelphia. I stayed at my brother's apartment at Pendle Hill, the oldest Quaker retreat center in the United States.
August 7 - Left Pendle Hill and rode into downtown Philadelphia, where I picked up SEPTA, the local train service, to Trenton, where I was able to roll my bike onto a New Jersey Transit train that took me to Penn Station in Manhattan. I quite like how SEPTA and NJ Transit accommodates cyclists in off-peak hours. Its a true service. I wish Amtrak was as helpful.
Typical Philadelphia row houses on the west side.
The NYC West Side Bike Path that runs north and south along the Hudson River. The bridge in the distance is the George Washington. I took this shot as I biked north to my apartment in Washington Heights on the day I returned.
THE MIDWEST: GRID Alternatives
To see the final blog about the GRID Alternatives Trans American Cycling Tour, 2016, please go here.
To donate to GRID Alternatives through Climate Ride, please go here.
This travelogue blog begins in Denver and ends in Pittsburgh.
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Introduction
Welcome to my travelogue for the GRID Alternatives Trans American Cycling Tour, 2016. If you read some of my prior blogs you will see I am more interested in reflective writing on environmental issues than I am in writing a travelogue. However, the nature of the trip I am on (and have been on since April 8, 2016) makes me think this kind of writing has value. And because of the challenges and stresses a trip like this entails, I don't know that I will be able to write anything thoughtfully reflective until the trip is over.
For those of you tracking this tour day by day, please log onto my Facebook and Instagram accounts. There are links for both (and my Twitter account) at the bottom of this blog if you keep scrolling down. But if you don't participate in social media you can check in here from time to time. But please be forewarned - I find it very difficult to find wifi reliable enough to keep my blog fresh - in fact, I am often as much as two weeks behind. That said, I will get to it when I can, so please keep coming back! I promise you I will add to it eventually, so your patience will pay off.
On this trip I will travel more than 5000 miles on a bicycle over a number of months and visit a total of 11 regional GRID Alternatives offices - 8 in California (San Diego, Inland Empire, Greater LA, Central Valley, Central Coast, Bay Area, Bay Area North Coast and North Valley) - and then 3 more GRID offices in Denver, New York City and Washington, DC. The route will zigzag northward through California, then east across the Rocky Mountains through Nevada and Utah to Denver, and across the great midwest and the Appalachian mountains back to my home in NYC. The final leg of the tour from GRID's New York office to GRID's Washington DC office will take place from September 17 - 21 as part of the signature “Climate Ride NYC to Washington DC tour". At each office I will meet with GRID staff and participate in volunteer installations wherever possible. I also intend to do some additional cycling to see family and friends, and celebrate the National Park Service’s Centennial.
A great way that you can help put some wind behind my back is to support fundraising for my Independent Cycling Challenge at Climate Ride. Funds raised from this Climate Ride Independent Challenge will support GRID Alternatives. Please know that I am not raising money for myself - the trip is entirely self funded. So 100% of your $ goes to a tax deducible organization. And several excellent ones at that - Climate Ride takes a small portion for providing the fund raising website, and the rest goes directly to GRID. GRID's teams of volunteers come together to install solar systems for low income homeowners at no cost to homeowners. In addition, GRID’s hands-on training has evolved into one of the best solar training programs in the country. Your generous donation will help GRID Alternatives improve the bottom line for homeowners, decrease carbon emissions, and offer workforce training in the solar field - from marketing and sales to system installation - for individual homes, businesses, community solar and affordable housing. This is how to put people to work; solar has been the fastest growing industry in the country for the last four years!
You can make a secure online donation today by clicking on the 'Support Me' button on this webpage. You'll automatically receive an acknowledgment and I will be notified by email of your support. Thank you for your help!
A map of Grid Alternatives regional offices and a map of my route "in development" can be found here.
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This blog picks up on June 29, 2016 in Denver, Colorado. Yes, its true that Denver is a western city, but in many ways it is also a gateway to the great American midwest. For that reason I am splitting this blog into 2 parts - arriving in Denver belongs to the western section; and being in and leaving Denver belongs to the midwestern section.
June 29 - After several days of errands, working on my bike and catching up my blog, I rode into the GRID, Colorado office. What a great day I had. The ride to the office was lovely - 12 miles along Denver's famed South Platte River Trail. I met Allison Moe early in the day at the main office so she could drive me to the GRID warehouse. Along the way she explained that since marijuana had been legalized warehouse real estate had become much more expensive, which is why GRID Colorado had to find usable warehouse space so far away from its main office. Allison also told me about other "unintended consequences" of legalization, (which I had already heard before but not really believed). Legalization was driving population growth and a residential real estate boom, as well as problems with overcrowding in public schools. I spent the morning in a workshop with about 30 young people from "Bike and Build" (CUS16 unit) who were getting an orientation because they were going to volunteer on a GRID related "Habitat" build in Boulder several days later. I really enjoyed getting to know some of the "Bike and Build" crew - they are smart and committed group, and made me think that the organization has a lot going for it. In fact, it was by talking to one of the leaders about their route through Kansas that I decided to cross Kansas on Highway 36.
A workshop in conduit bending for the "Bike and Build" crew at GRID, Colorado.
Gathering with "Bike and Build" outside the GRID, Colorado warehouse.
After a quick lunch I had the pleasure of attending a workshop led by Erika Symmonds (Director of Workforce at GRID HQ), who had serendipitously flown into Denver from Washington DC that specific day to talk to staff about national efforts to improve GRID's workforce training processes. Erika and I used to work together at Green City Force, so it was great to be reunited in this context.
On June 30, I left Denver to begin my trip across the midwest toward New York City.
Rick Long and his daughter Sarah giving me a proper goodbye in Denver. Yes, it was day 81 of my trip!
I had not fully grasped that Highway 36 was as isolated and sparse in services as it is... it isn't as remote as Nevada, but still, I was forced to bike 100 miles between restaurants or motels. I didn't mind this in eastern Colorado as the climate was still dry, but as I progressed into Kansas and the climate became more humid, not having access to fresh water and a shower increasingly became a challenge.
July 1 - Spent a wet night in Joes, Colorado out in the eastern plains.
Thank God for this shelter. It rained heavily all evening.
July 2 - Facebook entry: "Dorothy, I'm in Kansas again! In Atwood, Kansas, where the skies are threatening, the humidity is high and the corn is looking good. Comparatively I feel like I biked into a big sauna. And OMG it's flat! But I'm good - had a great time in Denver, did some great things at GRID, Colorado, and loved all the new bike paths along the many creeks and rivers in Denver."
July 3 - Facebook entry: "Yesterday I mentioned how flat Kansas is. Well, surprise, after leaving Atwood this morning I encountered 80 miles of rolling hills - fun to go down and work to go up. But I had a productive day regardless. It's more Midwestern around me now - trees, blues, yellows and grays. And buggy. And humid. Blackbirds. Owls. Spiders. Big black beetles. And lots and lots of raccoon road kill. If climate change means more precipitation in the Midwest, Kansas is complying. Remember the saying about corn? Knee high by the 4th of July? Well, I'm looking at corn that is chest high. Incredible! Never saw that as a kid..."
On a 96 mile day I wandered around Pittsburg, Kansas looking for a good deal for the night and found this city park with showers and bathrooms for $10. Only problem was being subjected to fireworks until midnight. At one point I thought sparks were raining down on my tent, but I did make it through the night unscathed.
July 5 - Facebook entry: "Turns out north central Kansas isn't flat - it's rolling hills; at least for 80 east of Mankato. And it's hot and humid - mercury hit 99 degrees yesterday. I'm worried by the intensity of the heat - is it a harbinger of a harsher future? Let me also add that I'm enjoying this ride. There's blackbirds, raccoons, butterflies and lots of friendly people. Should get close to Kansas City today, where I will be visiting my cousins Phil and Eden. Then a quick 4 day flight back to NYC. When I return it's on to Galesburg, IL, where I will visit my Mom. So great to see family along this trip!"
July 6 - Facebook entry: "In Hiawatha, KS, after a moderate day. Been wondering why the heat in Kansas is affecting me more deeply than the heat in Utah did. So I went on the Climate Central website, where there is information about humidity increase with warming trends. Given that we've had 14 consecutive months of record breaking temps it's no surprise that humidity is an increasing problem. Combine that with the "dog days of summer" and the challenge is understandable. Check this out from Climate Central: "During hot summer days, additional moisture in the air stresses the body by making it harder to cool itself through perspiration. This effect is not just irritating and uncomfortable, it can also raise the risk of heatstroke and heat exhaustion and in some cases, death. According to the Centers for Disease Control, more than 7,800 people died from heat-related illnesses from 1999-2009. More moisture in the air also keeps the nights warmer, as humid air does not cool as easily as dry air. The warmer and more sultry nights mean that the body has less time to recover after a hot and steamy day in the sun, which further increases the risk of heat-related illnesses. As both temperature and dew-point rise with climate change, the number of days in which they combine to raise the risk for heat-related illness is also expected to climb. The number of danger days — days when the heat index (the combination of heat and humidity) is at least 105°F — will likely increase substantially in much of the country."
July 7 - Facebook entry: "Thought I'd broken my derailleur today but was able to fix the problem. Whew! Started the day in a thunderstorm, ended it close to 100 degrees. And north Kansas isn't flat. Bikers beware! At my cousin Phil's in Leavenworth now - haven't seen him in 35 years and meeting his wife Eden for the first time. Loving the opportunity"! I spent July 8 in Lansing, KS with my delightful cousins Phil and Eden, and flew to NYC on July 9, leaving my bike at my cousin Phil's place in Lansing, KS for a few days. While in New York, securing provisions, dealing with some medical needs and troubleshooting a plumbing crisis in my apartment. It took two days to return because of airport issues, but finally on July 15 I left Kansas City once again to continue my journey.
Crossing the Missouri River. Some say this river carries more water and is longer than the Mississippi.
July 15 - My Facebook post at the end of the day: "After a 6 day hiatus with an unexpected delay, I'm back on the bike, heading toward GRID, New York. In Missouri now, lots of woods, rivers, hills. Nice place, even north of the Ozark's, which are magnificent... Next destination: Galesburg, IL, where I grew up and where my Mom lives... I saw some signs opposing a Wind Farm development today - took me by surprise - want to research what that's about. Seems counter productive to me, of course..."
I was surprised to see these.
And then I saw this. You can learn more about this issue here.
July 16 - My Facebook post: "In Brookfield, MO. It's HOT today. I didn't notice it so much on the bike, but walked a few blocks to get food and could feel the dog days of summer, made more intense by yet another record breaking month for heat (16 in a row now?). Yet, after some good Mexican food and a few beers to kill a serious thirst, I feel content". For the record, I had a very nice motel, clean and well maintained. And I paid $42. I have done better on two other occasions - $35 in the valley in California and $31 in Macomb, Illinois. None of these places were dives, they were all pleasant and well maintained. So, there are good deals out there if one is willing to look...
A coal train moving through Missouri.
July 17 - Facebook: "Big ride today. I suppose I could have ridden for 3.5 more miles to get my century in but that seemed pointless. I was beat. Once I got off highway 36 and on MO bike route 161 I felt like I was in the Midwest I know and love; hills, lakes, even some great blue herons".
July 18 - This was a big one, 94 miles after a 96 mile day before. The heat was challenging and I thought I would end the day at Carthage, but I found a very inexpensive motel in Macomb and after some good food, decided to go for it. Later in the day the humidity lifted and the ride became pleasant in the later hours.
July 19 - Made it Galesburg! On the 20th I posted in Facebook: "Made it to my hometown Galesburg, IL, where I am taking a rest day and visiting my Mom. She's doing great, and I'm taking a short break from record heat indexes. Folks, this is only the beginning stages of what a warming planet is like. Let's make the life saving switch to renewable energy"! You can support the Climate Ride “GRID Alternatives Trans-American Cycling Tour”, 2016 by going to my Climate Ride Fundraising Page
My mom in the living room of her apartment at the Kensington, an assisted living facility in Galesburg.
July 22 - Last February my Mom fell and broke her hip. It was a pleasure to spend several days with her, and I am so proud of how well she has recovered. It seems a certainty that she will be walking without a walker or a cane soon. We had a lot of fun doing errands, reminiscing and complaining about the RNC (easy target this election season especially). But all good things must come to an end. After several days I left Galesburg early in the morning for the home stretch to New York City. The city is 1100 miles away so I am sure adventures await. I was forced to travel in incredible heat, but made very good time anyway, probably because I got on the road at 6 am and had no mechanical problems. In fact, I rode for 100.53 miles to Sterling, passing through some towns I recognized - Wataga, Victoria, La Fayette and one I didn't - Wyoming.
Spoon River, muse for the famous "Spoon River Anthology".
July 23 - I have two FB entries for the day. The first references this interesting article on Inside Climate News: "Biking through this heat makes it very real for me - and I can tell you, unrelenting high humidity and temperatures makes daily life much harder. And why is this not being talked about on the national political stage? It's time to acknowledge climate change for the grave threat it is... In fact, I just read that the Democratic Party needs a cause. Are you kidding me? It's addressing Climate Change, which, by default, is also about income disparity, social justice, public health, and infrastructure... Come on, Democratic Party, this is obvious!"
My second entry for the day was this: "I bought a pair of Schwalbe Marathon tires when I started my cycling tour. Those tires held up without the slightest issue for well over 4000 miles. But, beginning in Palmyra, MO and again this morning in Streator, IL I have woken up to slow leaks on my rear tire. I fixed the first rather deftly (if I say so myself) but the second took me much of this morning to repair, since I discovered the leak about 20 miles into the day. I was on rural roads - miles from help and no traffic. But after some emergency pumping I got the bike to a General Store (these are like 7/11's in the Midwest..) and was able to unpack the bike and replace the inner tube. And a friendly biker even handed me a spare tube since I was using up my only spare... Hope it holds - my back tire is now showing 4500 miles of wear and needs to be replaced... Wish me luck until I find a bike shop - not too many around the rural plains..."
In eastern Illinois I passed a handful of wind farms in corn fields. They can be quite majestic.
July 24 - I didn't find a bike shop, and the next day I was plagued again by another slow leak in rural Indiana. Fortunately, I was lucky enough to stop at the house of a truck driver/farmer who had an air compressor pump. Later I learned his name was Mike and his wife, Andrea. I didn't get their last names but they were incredibly kind and helpful, adding to my "bike karma" debt. Together we managed to get my tire patched enough to make it 20 miles north (and back west!) to Valparaiso, where I spent the night so I could get to Buck's bicycle shop for new tubes and tires the next day. It worked, and an astute mechanic was even able to discover several small slivers of glass in my rear tire that were the cause of the problem (mixed with increased tire pressure as the days grew hotter). I was amazed because I had spent a lot of time looking - unsuccessfully - for the cause of the leaks..
July 25 - Stopped in Nappanee, Indiana, an Amish town in north central Indiana. I had some company for dinner that evening - an interesting woman named Scarlet Whitehead - who was interested in hearing about my cross county tour. Scarlet is quite funny and down to earth, and as a family member that owns a construction company in Columbia City, Indiana, makes her living rebuilding restaurants. Practical and clever folks, those Hoosiers! And, although we didn't talk politics, I got the impression she agrees with me about the urgency of climate change... which was comforting because Indiana seems to be home to a significant number of people who don't seem to believe what climate scientists are telling us.
July 26 - My FB entry for the day: "Good day, made it to western Ohio... after yesterday's stop at Buck's Bike Shop in Valparaiso, IN, I have new tires and tubes all around. What a relief. And to top it off, the heat and humidity has lifted-- I never thought I'd consider 86 degrees reasonable but that's my new normal..."
July 27 - From FB: "I continue to make progress through Ohio. Took many beautiful side roads and glad I didn't have many hills to climb... "
Can this be called the opposite of a "barn-raising"?
July 28 - From FB: "Got to Wooster, OH and my Warm Showers host took me to a local brewery. Can't tell you how good beer tastes after 85 miles... Today I starting climbing hills on my approach to Pittsburg (where I will be hosted by my friend Kittie Verdolini). Tonight I'm in a campground near the PA border..."
July 29 - From FB: "Today I starting climbing hills on my approach to Pittsburg (where I will be hosted by my friend Kittie Verdolini). Tonight I'm in a campground near the PA border..."
July 30 - From FB: "Not long in the bike today since I had a mechanical issue about 8 miles into the ride... Rain, a hill and some traffic seemed to rattle me enough for me to shift poorly and jam my derailleur significantly - so much so that the cable snapped, and the derailleur and the frame bent. But some crises are quickly solved - my friend Kittie drove 78 miles from Pittsburgh to get me, and dropped me off at an REI in downtown where my damaged bike was quickly repaired... Hats off to Kittie and an extraordinary mechanic who saved the day and my bike!"
A ruined derailleur and a bent frame.
July 31 - I spent the day sleeping in, catching up on this blog, organizing gear, hanging out with my friend Kittie and her husband Tom and reading about the Allegheny Passage Bike Trail, which combined with the C&O Trail, goes from Pittsburgh to Washington, DC. What a great day of rest! Tomorrow I begin the third chapter in my cross country journey, the Eastern US. Look for the story in my next blog - THE EAST.
WEST: GRID Alternatives
Welcome to my travelogue for the GRID Alternatives Trans American Cycling Tour, 2016. If you read some of my prior blogs you will see I am more interested in reflective writing on environmental issues than I am in writing a travelogue. However, the nature of the trip I am on (and have been on since April 8, 2016) makes me think this kind of writing has value. And because of the challenges and stresses a trip like this entails, I don't know that I will be able to write anything thoughtfully reflective until the trip is over.
For those of you tracking this tour day by day, please log onto my Facebook and Instagram accounts. There are links for both (and my Twitter account) at the bottom of this blog if you keep scrolling down. But if you don't participate in social media you can check in here from time to time. But please be forewarned - I find it very difficult to find wifi reliable enough to keep my blog fresh - in fact, I am often as much as two weeks behind. That said, I will get to it when I can, so please keep coming back! I promise you I will add to it eventually, so your patience will pay off.
To donate to GRID Alternatives through Climate Ride, please go here.
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On this trip I will travel more than 5000 miles on a bicycle over a number of months and visit a total of 11 regional GRID Alternatives offices - 8 in California (San Diego, Inland Empire, Greater LA, Central Valley, Central Coast, Bay Area, Bay Area North Coast and North Valley) - and then 3 more GRID offices in Denver, New York City and Washington, DC. The route will zigzag northward through California, then east across the Rocky Mountains through Nevada and Utah to Denver, and across the great midwest and the Appalachian mountains back to my home in NYC. The final leg of the tour from GRID's New York office to GRID's Washington DC office will take place from September 17 - 21 as part of the signature “Climate Ride NYC to Washington DC tour". At each office I will meet with GRID staff and participate in volunteer installations wherever possible. I also intend to do some additional cycling to see family and friends, and celebrate the National Park Service’s Centennial.
A great way that you can help put some wind behind my back is to support fundraising for my Independent Cycling Challenge at Climate Ride. Funds raised from this Climate Ride Independent Challenge will support GRID Alternatives. Please know that I am not raising money for myself - the trip is entirely self funded. So 100% of your $ goes to a tax deducible organization. And several excellent ones at that - Climate Ride takes a small portion for providing the fund raising website, and the rest goes directly to GRID. GRID's teams of volunteers come together to install solar systems for low income homeowners at no cost to homeowners. In addition, GRID’s hands-on training has evolved into one of the best solar training programs in the country. Your generous donation will help GRID Alternatives improve the bottom line for homeowners, decrease carbon emissions, and offer workforce training in the solar field - from marketing and sales to system installation - for individual homes, businesses, community solar and affordable housing. This is how to put people to work; solar has been the fastest growing industry in the country for the last four years!
You can make a secure online donation today by clicking on the 'Support Me' button on this webpage. You'll automatically receive an acknowledgment and I will be notified by email of your support. Thank you for your help!
A map of Grid Alternatives regional offices and a map of my route "in development" can be found here.
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I flew from New York City to San Diego on April 7. On April 8th, I woke early so I could join the GRID, San Diego crew at Mesa Grande in Santa Ysabel, California about 50 miles out of San Diego. It was a whirlwind install - I was tired and jet-lagged. But the GRID crew were fantastic, and I felt excited to be there. And I wasn't aware of it at the time, but a few days later I cycled through the same community as I began my ride throughout California. On the 9th of April I unpacked and reassembled my bike, and on the 10th I left the home of my friend John Tessmer to begin the tour. On the morning of the 10th a few people from the GRID office gathered at John's to see me off.
The amazing staff and volunteers at Mesa Grande working for GRID, San Diego.
On the 9th of April I unpacked and reassembled my bike, and on the 10th I left the home of my friend John Tessmer to begin the tour. On the morning of the 10th a few people from the GRID office gathered at John's to see me off.
John Tessmer and me preparing for my departure.
Me with Laura Galavis, a Solar Installation Supervisor (SIS) at GRID, San Diego.
That morning I met Tom McSorley from GRID San Diego. He was the first of many GRID employees to make a contribution. Its amazing how supportive and enthusiastic GRID team members are!
My accommodations the first night out, courtesy of Warm Showers, an online hosting organization for cycling enthusiasts.
On April 10, I left Julian, and headed east toward Anza Borrego. My host for the evening, an experienced long distance rider named Ben Blue, had talked me into riding through Joshua Tree National Park. I was not disappointed. I had a strong second day, riding quite a bit of it downhill (as opposed to the day before). I stopped near the Salton Sea and found an RV Camp. The next day, on April 11, I made it to Cottonwood Campground on the south entrance of Joshua Tree. What a stunning place!
On the way to Joshua Tree I rode through Anza Borrego State Park. It was every bit as desolate and beautiful as I had imagined.
On the morning of April 12 I began the trek through the park. What a deeply satisfying day it was. I dropped from 3000 feet down to 2000 quickly into the Pinto Basin, and then climbed another 2000 feet to finally arrive at the Cholla Cactus Gardens.
If you look closely you will see a hummingbird feeding on the cactus.
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In an attempt to keep this travelogue up to date, I am going to link to my Garmin trip records for each day I cycle. I will then try to fill in the gaps with narrative as time allows.
April 13 - Out of Joshua Tree toward Riverside
I had to post a picture of a Joshua Tree.
April 14 - Out of Yucca into Riverside, stay with Bambi Tran from GRID
One of many encampments of "homeless" people on the Santa Ana River. I wonder if we would have regarded folks living similarly as homeless 100 years ago?
April 15 - GRID Inland Empire installation in San Bernardino
The amazing Keaton McGuire, GRID Solar Installation Supervisor (SIS) running an install in San Bernardino.
April 16 - GRID Inland Empire installation in San Bernardino
Daniel from Puerto Rico, a Construction Supervisor for GRID, Inland Empire. Even though Daniel's English was limited he was one of the best teachers (in English) I've ever been around.
My brother Chris and I at dinner together.
April 20 - GRID, LA office and site visit day, evening with family
Staff at GRID, LA. What an amazing group of people! I spent the day with Jorge Valdez on the far right, pulling permits and doing a site visit in Long Beach. Jorge has the distinct honor of having the most volunteer hours of any GRID volunteer. However, he is now an employee!
April 21 - Arrive in LA to stay with Kareem Ferguson
My student and artistic colleague Kareem Ferguson.
April 22 - Into Venice to visit Jeff Leahy and on to visit with Debra Dralle
The extraordinary beachfront in Venice.
There is an interesting section of undeveloped coast between Ventura and Santa Barbara that is a regional park. It reminds me of a "light" version of the Lost Coast area south of Eureka.
April 25 - Wind out of the NW is very tough going, stay at Motel in Lompoc, have dinner with Ian Cummings
A selfie with me and Ian Cummings after a great meal at a local Taqueria in Lompoc.
April 26 - Arrive in SLO, stay with Justin Hitchcock of GRID Central Coast
April 27 - Layover day at Justin's, do laundry, start this blog post
Central Coast ED Justin Hitchcock in front of his home.
April 28 - Participate in GRID solar installation in San Alamos, driven up to Atascadero where I sleep in GRID Central Coast office
April 29 - Get to the valley, where I find an RV Park after a long day riding
April 30 - Another long day (10+ miles more than the Garmin says because of equipment malfunction) to Fresno, where I find an inexpensive Motel 6. Plan to rest here for a day, do laundry, catch up on this blog.
May 1 - Take day of rest in Fresno, decide to change itinerary and cycle to GRID North Valley office in Chico next instead of Bay Area.
May 2 - Bike from Motel 6 to GRID Fresno office, felt warmly welcomed by staff and had great conversation about managing growth, aggregating outreach and installation opportunities over a 12 county area, and strengthening communities. Tom Esqueda, the ED for GRID Fresno kindly booked me into a very nice motel called the Piccadilly Inn.
Tom and Jesse from the GRID Fresno (Central Valley) office.
The GRID staff that were around during my visit to Fresno. What a warm group of people!
An iconic poster that got me situated.
May 3 - Rode from Fresno to Atwater. Long day, headed for an RV Park at end of day, only to discover in the nick of time they did not accommodate bicycles. I ended up in a cheap motel by the train tracks (which run all the way up the valley - I've been following train tracks, and trains, for 4 days).
May 4 - Rode from Atwater to Lodi, and stayed with Warm Showers hosts Randall and Elyssa Oliver. This was a 70+ mile long day, but I lost my computer data at the end of the day. I also discovered that I tend to lose 10+- miles/day due to computer snafus, so I need to adjust data in my head. Even so, I passed my 1000 mile mark on this day.
May 5 - I left Lodi late and faced rainclouds and some afternoon showers (as well as intense traffic) all the way to Roseville, where I visited my high school friend Preston Stepper. Preston is starting a new business - running a live music business called "The Acoustic Den Cafe". Slept at Preston's home.
May 6 - Left Roseville early, and because I didn't get much sleep, I knew I didn't want to make it a long day. Stayed overnight in Marysville in a Motel 6. I am now adding 100 miles to my totals because of the lost data in Lodi and because I lose miles everyday due to computer issues. In any case, I hit 1150 total miles today.
May 7 - Holed up in the Motel 6 in Marysville waiting out rain. I decided to chance it and take off. Made it to River Reflections RV Park on the Feather River outside of Oroville. There was a festival supporting Foster Children at the park, and a great band playing golden oldies. Drank Feather River IPA and enjoyed myself until the evening, when the skies opened p and there was an amazing downpour. Miraculously, however, I had placed my tent on 2 palettes I found and remained dry (although the tent was very wet). In the morning of the 8th I dried myself out as best I could and left for Chico.
Early in the morning on the Feather River after a night of hard rain.
May 8 - Found a Motel 6 on the north side of Chico so I could dry out my equipment. Stayed there and prepared to visit the GRID North Valley office the next day.
May 9 - Day in Chico, stayed with wonderful Warm Showers couple. Got help from North Rim Bike Shop and visited GRID office. Great day!
In the backyard of my Warm Showers hosts Karen and Peter in Chico.
One of many rice farms east of Chico in the Sacramento Valley. A great deal of water is diverted to the delta...
May 10 - Rode to Williams on the edge of the Sacramento Valley through Delta rice farms. The day was gorgeous (a relief after 5 days of grey skies) and the wind mostly at my back. Stayed at the Capri Motel for $35, a wonderful dive with clean rooms and a pleasant Gujarati owner. Kids played ball in front of my room until sunset.
May 11 - Over the mountains to Clear Lake, CA, one of the poorest per capita towns in California. Stayed for the next 3 nights at the Clear Lake RV Resort on the edge of Clear Lake. The place was under construction, so the bathrooms were a mess and for awhile the shower didn't work. I liked it anyway. The people were friendly and I felt safe. And I paid $65 for 3 nights.
My home for 3 nights on the shore of Clear Lake.
May 12 - Participated in solar installation for GRID Bay Area North office.
The view of the lake outside my tent.
Me on a roof on the Clear Lake installation. It was hot!
May 13 - Participated in solar installation for GRID Bay Area North office.
Hayden, a fellow volunteer on the installation.
Maggie Graham helped me find my way to this install. The outreach people at GRID are tireless, enthusiastic and passionate.
May 14 - Biked from Clear Lake south to Vallejo and stayed in a Motel 6. The ride was long - 80 miles but traversed some extraordinarily beautiful country - especially Pope Valley, where I biked at least 10 miles downhill on a winding road with almost no traffic. Sensational ride!
May 15 - From Vallejo, I headed west to Petaluma and then down to Novato to visit friends Judith Bell and Daniel Ellenberg. The ride from Petaluma to Novato was especially beautiful, and the evening was terrific. So enjoy my friends, and the freedom a bike offers to spend time with them...
May 16 - Left Novato early and took a long ride (not in miles but in time) to Palo Alto, where my Dad and his wife Dawn live.
Looking south at San Francisco. The Golden Gate Bridge is just around the corner.
May 17 - 20 - My Dad is 97 years old, and still clearheaded and funny, although he and his wife Dawn do struggle some to manage the challenges of daily life. I was not sure how long I would stay because I didn't want to add stress. But it is now Friday and I am still here, so my visit seems to be going well.
My Dad drying off after a swim. The guy is amazing. It was such a pleasure to see him on this trip...
On May 21, I made my way to Berkeley from Palo Alto, but not before my son John, his partner Beth and my granddaughter Devon showed up to spend the day with my Dad and his wife Dawn. What a great reunion it was! Even my brother Chris and his wife Nita came up from LA for the visit.
John, Beth and Devon shortly after arriving.
My Dad and in the background, and his wife Dawn and my granddaughter Devon in the foreground.
Great Grandparents, Grandfather, Great Aunt and Uncle, Dad. Missing is Mom - Beth, who took the picture.
Later in the day I took the lovely ride over to the East Bay, especially across the Dunbarton Bridge across the salt flats and onto a finished section of the Bay Area trail along the bayshore on western Hayward and San Leandro. I spent the next three days in Berkeley at the home of Rafael Gonzales, and old friend and noted poet and activist. Rafael and I spent a lovely day together at the excellent Oakland Museum of California.
My old friends Rafael Gonzales and Deena Levy. Although I lived there for 7 years in the late 1980's, I hadn't been back to the East Bay for about 35 years.
On Monday I was treated to a terrific welcome lunch (in my honor) at the GRID Bay Area Headquarters. I felt very welcomed by the entire staff, and owe a very special thank you to Lia Papazaglou and her colleague Daisy Meyer for taking such good care of me. Lia has helped me at every GRID office along the way by making sure I was in touch with just the right person. On Tuesday, May 24, I participated in a solar installation in Daly City with a team from Sunrun on a corporate build at a new housing development built by Habitat for Humanity. Loads of fun!
I was treated to a terrific welcome lunch (in my honor) at the GRID Bay Area Headquarters.
One of my favorite photos of the trip so far. Staff gather in Oakland to welcome me on my tour!
On Tuesday, May 24, I participated in a solar installation in Daly City with a team from Sunrun on a corporate build at a new housing development built by Habitat for Humanity.
The installation team in Daly City. What a great day it was!
On May 25, while still digesting the conclusion on my California tour, I left the Bay Area to begin the trek to Denver. Once I get to Denver (I am catching this blog up on June 7 in Milford, Utah), I will have visited 9 of the 11 national regional GRID offices. Assuming I get to participate in a solar installation in the Denver area (which I expect will happen), I will have participated in 7 installations.
But in the meantime, I am now in the process of touring across Nevada, Utah and Colorado. Yesterday I passed from Nevada into Utah on highway 21 - even more isolated than the famous "loneliest road in America - Highway 50". What an amazing 83 miles from Brady, Nevada (a gateway town to the Great Basin National Forest) into Milford. But I am getting ahead of myself. Below are the Garmin records, photos and short Facebook blurbs from the past several weeks.
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May 26 - Headed out of the Bay Area to begin my trip to Denver. Now the true long distance cycling challenge begins! Tomorrow I will pass through Sacramento, follow the American River for a while and tackle the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. Excited!
The amazing American River Trail goes for 30 miles through Sacramento to Soledad.
May 27 - Made it to Bear Lake RV Camp. Thought I would be leaving early the next day but because Memorial Day weekend was going to make finding a campsite difficult. I was right. Set up a bootleg camp on the outside of the RV park (with the blessing of the owners). Decided to stay over a day because my campground was free and I had internet. Besides, it was a beautiful place.
The view from my campsite on Bear Lake off Route 88 in the Sierra, which goes over Carson Pass, the same pass used by the original Mormons. It was once known as "Emigrant Trail".
Near Carson Pass, the route I took over the Sierra.
A selfie of me at Carson Pass. This was the route used by the original Mormons, and once was called the Emigrant Trail.
Hope Valley on the eastern slope of the Sierras heading into Nevada.
May 29 - Got over the Sierras and into Nevada. Rode into Carson City to discover the town was deep into "midnight madness" - a 72 hour long softball tournament. I decided to catch it for a few minutes on my way out of town tomorrow. And I thought I was the one having a ball...
May 30 - Got into Fallon. Really in the heart of Nevada now. Casinos are plentiful. So is land. People are scarcer. Soon I will be on the "loneliest stretch of highway in the US", a remote stretch of highway 50.
The land west of Fallon has a lot of sagebrush - when i went through the smells were amazing.
Highway 50 out of Fallon is the famous "Loneliest Highway in the World", which i don't think is true now - a few days later I was on 21 coming into Utah, and that was far lonelier - maybe one car passed ever hour...
May 31 - 61 miles today with one place for water on the way. Tomorrow to Austin, Nevada, and then a 71 mile run with no water.... I will carry enough - figuring out how to do that... The Great Basin desert in Nevada is astonishingly beautiful and sometimes bleak. Great landscape! Loving this challenge...
The only restaurant in Middlegate, Nevada, about 50 miles east of Fallen. After that is Cold Spring up the hill about 20 miles, and then another 50 to Austin (pop 69) where there is a cafe that stays open until 5 pm.
June 1 - Kept today mellow, although it was 50 miles with no services. In Austin, Nevada, tonight at a Baptist RV Park. Truly Christian in that it serves travelers with or without $ and works on an honor system. Beautiful country, mixed culture. Lots of Trump supporters out here. I feel bad for them - they genuinely believe he will help them... It's hard to watch people be so conned. Anyway, tomorrow I have a 71 mile ride with no services. Broke my water bag today but I have figured out another way to carry extra water.... Two passes to climb - maybe my biggest challenge to date...
Out of Austin on the way to Ely. Each day seems to bring a bigger challenge in heat, wind and passes.
Austin was not a town I would have liked to bike through had I not been white. As it was, I felt nervous.
June 2 - Made it, 70 miles, no services, including water. From Austin (pop 192) to Eureka, Nevada (pop 690). 82 miles and 3 mountain passes away is my stop for tomorrow, the booming metropolis of Ely (I think about 9k)... It's basin, ridge, pass, ridge, basin, ridge, pass, over and over. Beautiful and the most remote country I've ever seen in the lower 48. Eureka has a nice feel, btw. Lots of kids, good park, a good bar and grill. I get the impression the folks who live here genuinely enjoy their town and are proud of it. The sign on the way into town reads "the friendliest town on the loneliest highway in the world". Seems right...
On the other hand, I found Ely a warm and welcoming place. I was offered some free dehydrated food to try out by the manager of Sportsworld, Paul Bath, which became essential over the next two days.
June 3 and 4 - Resting today in Ely, Nevada. Have had a really good time here - great sporting goods store with attached bike shop and a manager who offered me new meal replacement bars as a gift because he likes what I'm trying to do. Town also sports several casinos and a 1950's soda fountain (was built in 1947). I'm somewhere between old Vegas and "Our Town". The trip in was challenging with 3 passes to climb and no services. But guess what? In 2 days I have to do an 84 mile jaunt with no towns as I cross into Utah. Challenges keep getting incrementally bigger... And I seem to meet them, which of course makes me feel good...
Just cause...
More lonely road.
June 5 and June 6 - Just finished the most challenging day yet on this tour. 3 peaks, 100+ degree heat, 83 miles, no services. I am indebted to Paul Bath of Sportsworld in Ely, who gifted me ER Bars (at 800 calories per serving, they saved me from flagging not once, but twice, since I had to deal with an intense wind while climbing which made the effort exponentially harder), and also to traveler Micah Jayne, who had the foresight to cache water and fruit at the second of 3 peaks today -- although he was in a car, he could tell what I was up against... So my bike karma keeps building - I have a lot of giving back to do when the time is right... And tonight I am resting in a motel in Milford, Utah. Cute town of 1200 people. Last night I stayed in Baker, Nevada, at a charming RV park where I met Micah... Baker has 69 inhabitants and because it's the gateway town for the Great Basin National Park, it has a couple great restaurants and bars... I love this expansive, dry, mountainous country... And I so enjoy being off the beaten path...
June 7 - Resting up in Milford. Tomorrow I will bike 50 miles to Cedar City, where I will then spend four days enjoying the surrounding area with my good friend Maryjane Fahey, who is coming to visit. I probably won't post again until I hit the road for my next segment on Tuesday, June 14th.
So it's now June 21st, and I am catching up in Durango, Colorado, where I am visiting my Uncle Tom and his partner Chris, and my high school friend Linda Jones. Below are a few pictures of a side trip to Bryce Canyon that Maryjane and I took. Because we stayed in a ski lodge near Cedar Breaks, Utah, we spent little time in Cedar City (it was about 25 miles and 4000 elevation feet away). We saw Zion as well, but thought that, while extraordinary, the crowds made it a far less enjoyable experience than Bryce.
Maryjane (in the blue hat) on her way up the narrows at Zion.
My friend Maryjane Fahey enjoying the Bryce scenery.
The length of Bryce Canyon.
One of my favorites photos.
Me enjoying the moment.
Leaving Cedar Breaks was bittersweet. I was ready to get going onto the next leg of the trip to Denver, and reluctant to leave the comfort and relaxation in which Maryjane and I were basking. But on June 13, Maryjane and I drove our rented truck down to the Cedar City airport where she caught a plane to head back to NYC. I was lucky enough to be able to borrow a car from an employee at the ski lodge, so I drove back up the mountain (saving myself from a 30 mile long 8% grade climb). It wasn't all peaches and cream, however, because it was raining in Cedar City and snowing at Cedar Breaks. So, I started my bike trip to Denver at 10,000 feet and a snowstorm. But then, it could only get better. And it did. The sky stayed raucous for much of the day, however. That evening I posted the following on Facebook: " Left Cedar Breaks - about 20 miles east of Cedar City - yesterday morning in a high elevation snow/sleet storm and spent the evening in warm sunshine at Red Rocks Canyon west of Bryce Canyon. Today I cycled to Escalante, where I have found wi-if and therefore, Internet... Spent 4 lovely R&R days with Maryjane Fahey. What a good time we had, Zion and Bryce National Parks, Cedar City, hanging out, even the Tonys on TV... On my way to Denver in earnest now, although southern Utah certainly inspires me to slow down and enjoy... What amazing country!"
Rain clouds near Panguitch, Utah, as I biked toward Red Canyon State Park.
Red Rocks State Park on the way to Bryce. I camped near here.
On the next day, June 14, I created another post connected to a story on Climate Central that can be located here: "Yesterday I spoke to a Park Ranger near Bryce Canyon. We were talking about my cycling route and he warned me to skip the hotter parts of the day once I hit Escalante. Then he mentioned that he had been a ranger for 18 years and he had never seen heat waves come as early to southern Utah as this year. He fell silent. And then he said, "Only people who go from their AC car to their AC office are missing that the heat is increasing. And that is a lot of people. But one thing is certain. Climate deniers don't visit parks, they don't hike and they never camp. If they did, they'd know. Only people who isolate themselves from the weather can still believe its not changing." I thought of Donald Trump. Has he ever slept on the ground? Has he ever hiked 10 miles in a national park? Has he ever biked 80 miles? I doubt it. It would mess up his hair."
A canyon on the way to Escalante Grand Staircase on the way to the National Monument.
Next up was Escalante. I sent out no posts on June 15 because I had no cell service (this problem would persist all the way to the Colorado border). But the beauty around me was stunning and I was very content to amble along.
Leaving Escalante and heading up Boulder Mountain was a new challenge. The summit was almost 10,000 feet and I got there on June 16 after a day of arduous climbing. The day before and after both offered up some incredible views... I posted the following on Facebook: "I have to be quick because I only have wifi for another 10 minutes. But I'm fine - yesterday climbed over 5000 feet and today am dealing with a very intense desert sun. And all is good. Making my way through southern Utah - a place of exceptional beauty, mind blowing scenery and extreme temperatures. A truly amazing place... Got several more days in front of me without cell service - not much out here except beauty... What more does one need really?"
On the way up Boulder Mountain.
On the way down Boulder Mountain. In the distance center right are the Henry Mountains. They are notable because they were the last range in the US to be mapped (in the 1950's) and they still support wild buffalo herds - the only remaining wild herds in the US.
On June 17, I met Tony and Joy in the RV Park in Hanksville. They are fellow bikers on the ACA Great Western Trail, which is what I took from San Francisco to Durango, CO. We rode together the next day into Lake Powell, where we spent the night in the shade of a closed National Park Visitor Center.
Tony and Joy on the way from Hanksville to Glen Canyon National Park.
In addition to Tony and Joy, we were joined by Leslie, Marion and Lester, from San Francisco and Germany, respectively. We spent the afternoon in the shade and slept outside with mats on concrete pads. It was such a blessing when the sun went down.
Sunset.
The morning sun as I left Lake Powell for Blanding.
On June 18 I left my new friends and continued on to Blanding, Utah, where I treated myself to a hotel room. My post on Facebook that night reads as follows: "Today was the most challenging day I have had. At one point in the afternoon my Garmin computer was registering 118 degrees. In addition I had 74 miles to cycle with no access to water beyond what I can carry (4 liters). I had to get from about 4000 feet (stayed at Glen Canyon last night) to 7000 over a 48 mile climb. Lots of uphill... All that said, Utah keeps being spectacular. I'm so glad I am seeing this desert now because in several decades this kind of landscape will probably be too dangerous to visit (because of extreme heat) for much of the year... In that way, it's like visiting glaciers - now is the time! Our climate is changing so rapidly that much of what we take for granted may not be around much longer..."
The notch in the ridge is the road. It went down and then up, up, up at an 8% grade. I walked the bike.
On June 19 I wrote in Facebook: Left the Adventure Cycling Western (ACA) route today to make my trip to Denver more direct after a side trip tomorrow to see my uncle in Durango... Today hit 102 degrees, and it sure seemed like I climbed a lot...in Cortez, Colorado now --showered, tired, eating. How good beer and food taste!"
In the meantime I had gotten some press!
Check me out on the Climate Ride blog!
Check me out on GRID Alternatives news!
On June 20, I made it to Durango. What a pleasant town, and the Animus Valley to the north toward Silverton is exceptionally beautiful! I am staying with my Uncle, Tom MacCluskey and his partner Kriss Larson. A retired music critic and music restoration specialist, Tom does many things, and one of them is spend several hours everyday doing mosquito abatement at the nearby James Ranch. This ranch was profiled in a movie about innovative agricultural practices narrated by Robert Redford.
The view near the famous James Ranch, where restorative agriculture is practiced by 3 generations of the James family
My uncle Tom, His partner Kriss Larson, my cousin Chad's wife and their lovely daughter.
June 22 - I left Durango, headed for Denver. I planned no stops and hoped to get there in 5-6 days. Every day the scenery and routes were extraordinary. That evening, I wrote on Facebook: "Left Durango this morning after a day of rest and pleasure spent with my Uncle and his partner. What great people they are! I'm now heading to Denver in earnest - I should arrive early next week... Today was a long one but not as hard as some days prior. However, my Garmin said it was 106 at one point (it definitely was hot). Tomorrow I tackle the famous (infamous) Wolf Creek Pass- about a 25 mile climb from 6000 to 10500 feet. Woohoo"!
A ranch near Pagosa Springs.
June 23 - After a lovely evening in an RV Park north of Pagosa Springs, I tackled Wolf Creek Pass. My FB entry at day's end: "Got over Wolf Creek Pass. Along the way I met 2 Mexico to Canada hikers on the Continental Divide Trail and 3 bikers on the Divide Bike Trail. Am I jealous of what they are doing? Sure, but then my project kicks butt also:
You can support the Climate Ride “GRID Alternatives Trans-American Cycling Tour”, 2016 by going to my Climate Ride Fundraising Page.
8 miles plus 8% grades = tired guy .
Beetle kill - another attribute of a warming climate, was particularly evident on the climb to Wolf Creek Summit.
June 24 - Made good timing today in spite of another summit - this one named Poncha Summit. Either I'm getting stronger or the climbs are getting easier. But tomorrow or the next day I get to sample the climb into and out of South Park Valley - used to drive that area 30 years ago - it seemed like a climb in a car at the time - so I am guessing it'll be intense on a bike....
The ride down summits can make the climb worthwhile.
South Park Valley is a unique and starkly beautiful place.
Another view of South Park Valley.
June 25 - Ended the day at a poorly run and ill equipped RV Park on the side of hill with no cover. An intense wind and intermittent thunderstorms kicked up. I was lucky to make some food and get my tent up in the wind and rain (although it was stunningly beautiful). ...Interesting things one faces when human created spaces are not available.
Not far from where I camped during an intense wind and thunderstorm.
All things come to an end. After wind and rain, I was treated to this sunset.
June 26 - At the end of a long day and after my arrival into Littleton where I was greeted by my old friend and student Rick Long and his family, I wrote: "Made it to Denver, and am happily resting with Rick Long and his family in Littleton, who are making me feel incredibly welcome....Yesterday was a long one with many missteps, I think I went 10 miles further than my Garmin shows because a new update wiped out my settings and I didn't realize it wasn't recording for several chunks of the ride. But no matter, after going over an amazing final pass into the front range south of Sedalia and biking north on 105, I was able to see the lovely little towns in the foothills between Colorado Springs and Denver metro. Colorado has been extraordinary, and although I'm out of the mountains, I'm only 1/2 way across the state. I'll be here for a few days organizing and visiting GRID Denver! Yea"!
The view on 105 on the way north into Littleton. I had forgotten how lovely the front range can be.
June 27 - I bought new shoes and a lighter pair of long pants and got a new cassette and chain installed on my bike. Sounds exciting, doesn't it? It was - little things can make a big difference on a trip like this. I am having a wonderful time with Rick Long and his family, and am also feeling restored. Tomorrow I visit GRID, Denver, and it should be quite a day. So, look for more to come, probably when I am in eastern Colorado, Kansas or Nebraska (still figuring out which way to go). My next critical stop is Galesburg, IL, where I grew up and where my Mom still lives.
A State of Indifference - Sea Level Rise and Florida
I toured in Florida in March, 2016, starting in Jacksonville, and cycled south past St. Augustine. I then went west to Ocala, down to Naples on Florida's west coast, and finally through the Everglades. Finally, I headed east to Miami and north on Florida's southeastern coast. I covered about 700 miles, and witnessed firsthand an astonishing amount of infrastructure, including commercial and residential buildings that are certain to be in trouble in the years to come as the oceans rise.
The news cycle was pretty bad. Just before I left New York City in late February for a cycling tour in Florida, a story broke in the New York Times about an online report on sea level rise published by the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. Essentially, this report offers new evidence that oceans are now rising at a faster rate than they have for the past 28 centuries. This article appeared about the time that a bipartisan coalition of 15 South Florida Mayors asked to have a special meeting with then GOP presidential primary candidates Jeb Bush and Marco Rubio to discuss the impact of increasing levels of sea level rise. It seems that mayors of coastal communities in Florida are growing concerned about this issue, even if Florida Governor Rick Scott prohibits his administrative staff from using the words “climate change” in any official state documents (I am not making that up)!
Clearly, something fascinating and dare I say it - dysfunctional- is playing out in Florida’s Republican Party. Florida state policies toward renewables tell part of the story: The Solar energy Industries Association (SEIA) reports that “the sunshine state” of Florida ranks third in the nation for rooftop solar potential, but all the way down at 14th for cumulative solar capacity installed. Florida’s solar policies lag behind many other states in the nation: it has no renewable portfolio standard and does not allow power purchase agreements, two policies that have driven investments in solar in other states.
One of many countless neighborhood canals on the west coast of Florida.
In late March, the news cycle went from bad to worse for Floridians. The respected journal Nature published a study with evidence that the melting of the West Antarctic ice sheet was happening faster than scientists previously thought, and unless there is a drastic reduction on carbon emissions very soon, it is likely the sheet may deteriorate by 2100, adding additional sea level to current predictions. With ice melting in other regions, too, the total rise of the sea could reach five or six feet by 2100, the researchers found. That is roughly twice the increase reported as a plausible worst-case scenario by a United Nations panel just three years ago, and so high it would likely provoke a profound crisis within the lifetimes of children being born today. If one does the math, that much sea level rise will put almost all of Florida south of Lake Okeechobee under water. In maybe 80-90 years.
Fort Myers, I don't know if the tide was in or out.
I kept thinking about the inevitability of rising water in the latter part of February and early part of March, 2016 as I cycled 700 miles from Jacksonville, Florida to Palm Beach on the East Coast. I relaxed some as I headed west to Ocala in the center of North Florida (much of the forest is several hundred feet above sea level). But as I continued west to the Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge on the Gulf Coast of Florida and south on the West Coast through Tampa/St. Petersburg, Fort Myers and onto Naples, the sea - and a subtle anxiety - became my sidekick again. When I headed across the “Old Alligator Highway” (State Highway 41) through the Everglades into Miami – Dade County, I felt that anxiety a lot. But then, the traffic was merciless and on a bike, traffic can color one’s reflections. Finally, I went north through the western edge of Hialeah to Fort Lauderdale (a land of endless shopping malls), over to Boca Raton, and up the coast to West Palm Beach (a land of beaches, mainly hidden by ubiquitous and palatial mansions next to the water).
A bit of beach left to sell on the East Coast. A rare find!
It was my intention to talk with locals about what they thought along the route, and I did so whenever I could. However, the answers to my questions were so similar I was left with one persistently nagging impression. Few people in Florida, if any, seem to be paying attention. To be sure, developers are not. Someone even said to me that as long as the developers can pay off their loans in 15 years, why should they care? Sea level rise will be someone else’s problem.
In fairness, though, I think some individuals who live in areas recently affected by King Tides (Miami Beach and Fort Lauderdale are great examples) are already concerned about “sunny day” flooding. And clearly, 15 South Florida Mayors are concerned. It's reasonable to assume their city planners are as well. But the average citizen? I think most Florida citizens take great pleasure in enjoying the sunshine, the beach and the wonderful winter temperatures. And few deny climate change outright, but clearly are focused on “living in the moment” in spite of the sword of Damocles hanging over them. One colorful character who claimed to have been the head of the “Airboat Captain's Association” back in the day, definitely thinks it's getting hotter every year in the Everglades. Others agreed.
I wasn't able to get to the parts of Orlando or Tampa/St. Petersburg with emerging tech cultures so I didn't talk to millennials. Most of the people I saw, and met, were older. And more than one retiree told me they wouldn't be around long enough to affected by sea level rise anyway, so what the hell. The bottom line? As beautiful as parts as the state are, as incredible as the winter sunshine and light can be, and as much as I enjoyed the people I met - and took great pleasure in the company of my cousins who live there - it is not a place where I would want to put down stakes. At least without a really good raft.
An extraordinary sky at a campground in the Everglades.
Forrest Watkins and 360bybike.org
I recently learned about three fascinating bicycle touring websites focused on climate change and/or fundraising for climate change. They are:
Each of these sites are extraordinary by themselves and even more so for the adventures they represent. Recently I have had the good fortune to begin corresponding with Forrest Watkins of 360bybike. In his own words, he is “cycling the world, telling the human story of climate change.” Currently Forrest is in the Philippines, preparing to bike from Central Asia to Europe through the countries lining the historic northern Silk Road.
I have offered to create a post on behalf of 360bybike.com that will help carbonstories.org readers learn more about Forrest Watkins. So, read on and enjoy learning about this ambitious storyteller’s prior travels and his plans for an extraordinary journey to come.
Hello, readers of carbonstories.org. My name is Forrest Watkins, and I’m cycling the world to collect stories of humans and climate change. I’m interested in the impact of climate change on people, and also in the work of those searching for solutions. In the summer and fall of 2015, I biked 4,535 km across southwestern China and Vietnam and collected upwards of ten climate stories that I published at http://www.360bybike.org/
Then, I took two months off to visit home for the first time in a year and a half.
As of February 4, 2016, I’ll be in the Philippines (without Hester, my bike, which is currently resting in central China). While in Manila, I’ll meet with groups of artists and writers focused on social issues. I’ll move on to Eastern Visayas, where I’ll talk to communities of urban poor and groups working to get the word out about climate impacts in the area. Then I’ll head further south and talk to 350.org activists and groups opposing new coal projects.
After the Philippines, I’m going back to the city in China where I taught English for a year and where Hester is waiting. And I’ll strike out west. I’ll be in “mainland” China for about two more weeks before I get into the Central Asian region of the country. Then it’s on to Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Armenia and Turkey.
Here’s a map indicating my general route. The red markers are points of interest. At the end of this segment of the tour, I’ll dip into Greece for a moment for visa reasons and then post up in Istanbul for 2-3 weeks to plan for Europe.
Here’s what I need from readers on my blog at 360bybike and/or any other blogs right now:
Please help me fill in that map!
I need places to stay, I need people to talk to, places to visit, and/or any advice or encouragement you can give. If you know of any people or places that have been affected by climate change, any compelling climate or clean energy-related projects, any couches or floors where I could crash, or any places I simply can’t pass by, please contact me at fqwatkins@gmail.com, or use the contact form here. I’ll be inexpressibly grateful for any information you can give–tips for where to go, names of compelling projects, whatever it may be. The route is tentative and deviations of 100 miles or more are just fine.
I look forward to working together more in the future. Please do send me a link if you decide to post this!
Best, Forrest Watkins, 360bybike.com
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